Face shape and the cut: what works, what doesn't

Geometry, not magic

A face has proportions. A cut either balances them or throws them off in the wrong direction. It isn't magic — it's the ratio of height to width and where mass is added.

The four basic shapes

Oval. Most flexible. Almost anything works. You can afford contrast — short sides with longer top, or the reverse.

Round. You want extra height and less mass on the sides. Pompadour, quiff, or textured top with a tight fade. Avoid symmetric volume that widens the face.

Square. Strong defined jaw. Soft lines and texture soften it. A classic taper with natural texture on top is a safe default.

Heart (wide forehead, narrow jaw). Add mass lower. Consider a side-swept fringe, or shorter tops with slightly longer sides near the ears.

How to check in the mirror

Take a tailor's tape or a piece of string. Measure three things:

• Face height (hairline to chin)
• Width across the cheekbones
• Width across the jaw

Ratio of height to width. Nearly equal — round or square. Height noticeably greater — oval. Jaw narrower than cheekbones — heart.

What we do during the consultation

First ten minutes you sit in the chair and we talk. We look at the face, the hair (thickness, growth direction, crown whorl), what you have now, and what bothers you. Then we suggest two or three directions, show references, and pick one.

Rules we break

"Round faces shouldn't have short sides." Nonsense, if the top is shaped with height. "Square jaw means classic only." Also no. Texture does the work.

When it's complicated

Sometimes you want something that isn't ideal by proportion — but you love it. We'll tell you, and we'll do the best version of it possible. The result is yours, not ours.

Next

If you're unsure — come in for a consultation without booking. Ten minutes, coffee, conversation. No commitment.