Fade, taper, undercut: the difference in millimetres
The problem
"I want a fade." "Okay, which one?" — and the client freezes. The difference between four types of transitions is a matter of millimetres and where the skin begins. This post gives you the vocabulary.
Taper
A gradual transition from longer to shorter, but never down to skin. Starts higher, ends short at the ears and nape, but you still see hair. The most conservative. Works in an office, at a wedding, in your 50s and your 20s.
Grows out gracefully. Lasts 3–4 weeks between cuts.
Fade
A transition all the way to skin. The highest guard blends into bare skin (skin / bald fade), but before hair fully disappears, it steps through several "grades" on the clipper.
Sub-types by where the skin begins:
- Low fade: skin starts at the ear. Subtle, universal.
- Mid fade: skin starts at mid-side. Balance between contrast and structure.
- High fade: skin starts at the temple or higher. Strong contrast.
- Skin fade: the whole transition down to a complete shave.
A fade lasts less time — after 10–14 days the numbers start blurring visibly again.
Burst fade
Fade around the ear, the rest stays longer. A circular "burst from the ear" shape. Signature of mullets and mohawks, but in a soft version also for classic cuts.
Drop fade
Fade that drops down behind the ear. Creates a teardrop shape. Effective with longer tops — the line follows the crown and reads organic.
Undercut
Not fade, not taper. Sides and back are one length (say 3 mm), sharply bordered against the longer top. No transition.
Looks interesting when executed cleanly. Often over-rated in its hard form.
What usually suits you
Without seeing you, we most often recommend a low to mid taper, or low fade as a default for a first visit. Can be cut shorter, can be grown out. Safe.
What to say when booking
"Low fade, side part, top 4 cm." That's enough. We'll translate.
Or come without a specific idea. Consultation is free.